Ford Forums & Technical Discussions banner
1 - 9 of 9 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Howdy. Has any body replaced the oil pan on their escape?
I'm replacing the oil pan on my 2010 escape 2.5L, engine in vehicle. I've got the big thick Ford Workshop Manuals that are poor on the illustrations fo this job.
In the manual, a step for removal says, "Loosen the 2 upper bellhousing-to-engine bolts 5mm (0.19in)."
The illustration given is a partial view and is a view that's not showing the wire harnesses, plumbing, etc that blocks the clear view of these bolts.
There are no youtube videos of this job except for the 3.0 V-6 which was not at all helpful in this case. Appreciate any good help here.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Hey Lesblank!
I had some progress today by using a high power led flashlight and a 100W trouble light. But I'm still not sure how many bolts there are going through engine rear flange into bell housing and those going through bell housing into engine block. Ford manual is confusing and I sill have not found a view showing all bolt in one picture. I was able to locate 5 bolts although by some interpretation of the manual someone else might say there are 6.
I think I should have invested in one of the flexible inspection cable cameras a long time ago.
I had to pull the battery and its tray out and disconnect cables and the transmission selector lever cable. I loosened the 5 bolts I could see and then all the bolts attaching the oil pan. The pan didn't just drop. I had to wrestle it out and it made scraping sound as it slid down off the bell housing.
It got too dark to work anymore today. Tomorrow I'll try a "dry fit" of the new oil pan, a Dorman part. Wish me luck.
 

·
Administrator "Loose Nut"
1965 Ford Mustang, Houston, Texas
Joined
·
49 Posts
Sounds like you are making good progress. I’m sure you will but make sure you clean all mating surfaces good. Would be a bummer to have a leak when you are done.
 

·
Administrator "Loose Nut"
1965 Ford Mustang, Houston, Texas
Joined
·
49 Posts
I’m in the automotive part business, logistics side, run a warehouse. I went and pulled your oil pan. I know you said five or six bolts needed to come off tranny end. I’m only seeing four. Were the others only needed to be loose to give removal clearance?

Bumper Wood Automotive exterior Automotive design Gas


There’s only one mating surface that looks a little narrow. I would be careful to make sure it sealed well. There’s not an oil pan gasket, says to use RTV. Which RTV are you using?

Motor vehicle Automotive exterior Gas Auto part Automotive design
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I’m in the automotive part business, logistics side, run a warehouse. I went and pulled your oil pan. I know you said five or six bolts needed to come off tranny end. I’m only seeing four. Were the others only needed to be loose to give removal clearance?

View attachment 2682

There’s only one mating surface that looks a little narrow. I would be careful to make sure it sealed well. There’s not an oil pan gasket, says to use RTV. Which RTV are you using?

View attachment 2683
Hey, that's my oil pan for sure.
The bolts I was refering to from the Ford Workshop Manual, page 303-01A-72 to 74 and other pages, say to loosen, not remove, bolts connecting the bellhousing to the engine block. Those are besides the bolts in your beautiful photos that fasten pan to bellhousing and engine block. I think this loosening is done to give some space when R&R oil pan. Everything is so dern tight it's not easy to see the end of one thing thing and start of another. Kinda like putting on pants. You ususally loosen the zipper and waist button to fit your ass in them and then close up and cinch the belt.
I had the idea to look at 2.5L engines sold on eBay and was rewarded with some photos of the back end of the block without the bellhousing. Now I know where to look again on my vehicle.
Yes, clean, clean, clean - especially because the gasket is from a tube. I'm removing the original oil pan and that factory goop was cured all on the edges of pan and block. Barely a film was seen on the flat surfaces where it was applied on the assembly line. It squirted out to the edges and solidified into a string like. I used an old credit card and finger nails to scrape. I'll spray it all down with brakes parts cleaner.
Lesblank, THANK YOU very much for your kind interest.
 
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Top