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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
Got some more parts for the jeep. Got a set of twin stick cable shifters and a pair of comp cut rear fenders. A pair of Artec dana 60 axle trusses are on order, as well as link tabs & brackets. Ive got a set of ORI struts sitting on my floor for the jeep, 14" up front, 16" out back. A set of grooved 37" BFG baja tires have been ordered with pvc beadlocks. Things are getting serious. Pics up tomorrow...

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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
Here's the ORI struts...





Here's the comp cut fenders...



Here's the np205 cable shifted twin sticks...



Not included with the shifter, these were custom made for this jeep by the owner...



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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
So I started working on this again, This is how the adapter plate was originally made....



Here is where the top plate needs to be to line up with the new setup...



Notice the big gap in the front. Two ways to fix this, weld in a filler piece like what was done on the rear, or get a new plate, so guess what was done?



While this one is twice the thickness at 0.750", we got a hell of a deal on the piece as it was a throwaway, so it was used. Another problem I had was the bolts used was starting to rust...





So replacements were sourced, and we added some bling...



Yep, stainless steel hardware is now used to stop the rust. Here they are installed...





So with the lower adapter in place, my next problem was the fuel pressure regulator. The adapter was trimmed down in height about an inch as the return line connector on the fuel rail prevents going any lower. The original adapter plate was fitted around the FPR. Here it is in its original position....





Here is the new adapter plate....





So as you can see the adapter plate needs trimming...



While waiting for the owner to decide whether to cut it by hand or CNC it (which would take about a week or so), I mocked up the supercharger in place and set the belt on to figure out the routing...



And for grins and giggles, I brought out the monster to see what it'll look like sitting on the motor...











As you can see, this sits way farther forward than the M90. So a different adapter will need to be made to fit this M122. Just so you know just how big this monster is, here it sits next to its sibling, the M90..



The owner got in touch with me, and decided not to take the time to CNC it, so it was done by hand. Here is the piece cut out...



Here is the plate sitting on the adapter, showing fitment around the FPR...



Here it is mocked up in position...





So with everything lining up, I got measurements where it is, and pulled it back off so it can get welded up. Unfortunately I'm out of Argon so I won't be able to do it. I'll bring it to the owner so he can take it to his work and have a co-worker weld it up, which brings me to a stopping point. In a couple of the pictures, you might be able to see the trans dipstick tube was replaced, as the original one was damaged when the motor was removed from the donor, as was a couple of the sensors. I might be working on this tomorrow afternoon if I have time. I gotta make custom motor mount plates since the engine has been relocated forward almost 3 inches. Not pictured, but I got in two axle trusses from Artec, one for a superduty 50 thats going in the front, the other to fit a full float 60 thats been drilled out to fit 35 spline shafts, more on that later in the build as I assemble them with new parts...

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Very nice man. I am having the same problem with all my allen bolts I used on my rebuild. Guess I am going to have to throw some coin down on stainless as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
Some updates today, but not as much as I had hoped as its 96* in the shade, I really need to get an air conditioned shop. I got some mustang equal length MAC headers thats replacing the stock mustang headers (no pics). I started today by going over all the plugs on the engine and deleting all the ones not needed, like emissions. Ended up changing the throttle body, one cause the explorer TB is larger than the mustang, and two, cause the IAC and TPS sensor plugs are different. I also had to change the IAC sensor as the plug on the sensor was broke off. The TB blade operates different from the mustang, so I'll have to fab a different bracket....



Then I started pulling the harness apart and deleting all the uneeded circuits, including all emissions, air ride control, AC cutout switch, etc from the engine harness...



I also need to redo the 42 pin plug as the ecu is getting mounted inside the cab, so it'll need to get rewired so the engine harness can be removed easily by disconnecting the one plug...



Now comes the fun part of rewiring the plug, so its cut, strip and solder time. I quit for the day since the temps were getting in the danger zone, literally. Plan to get the wiring done tomorrow morning when its still kool. I need to get some wire as I need to extend the ecu plug to engine harness by about 3 feet, including tieing into the vehicle's wiring so the engine can function...

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
I haven't mounted them yet, and these are the one piece flange. This is the same set I was selling a couple months ago...

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
So today im continuing the wiring, which I think this has been the most complex wiring I've done in my career. Trying not to start completely from scratch I started with an engine harness from a 98 explorer, pulled enough apart to delete the emissions, which is the EGR and DPFE, then started removing the wires/circuits that wouldn't be used, like air ride control, AC clutch, etc. After looking at whats left, it didn't look like I could fit all the remaining engine and trans circuits through the 42 pin plug. So I went through it again, wire by wire, and came up with 41 circuits that had to go through the 42 pin plug. It would make it easy on me to run the alternator excite/charge wire through this connector as well, so that makes # 42. Talk about cutting it close!
In the meantime, I thought it feels like its cooling off. I look up, clear skies. I knew it was supposed to rain later today, so I go check the thermometer, and its reading 78*, it was 96* an hour earlier. The temp dropped almost 20* in 15 minutes. I thought this can't be good, so I picked up my tools and soldering equipment, come back outside and its black! Less than 5 minutes later its raining. Looks like I called that one at the right time.
So with progress cut short, all I can do is plan. I've got it down to 60 circuits coming out of the ecu, 5 are grounds, 2 are vpower, so technically its 55 circuits, 13 are staying in the cab, 2 of which are for the fuel pump, and 41 are going to the engine and trans. I know, I know, 13 and 41 don't equal 55. Some circuits are shared, going both in the cab and out to the engine. I've got to extend the ecu harness by 26", all 55 circuits, then I got to find a 16 pin connector I can use to connect the harness to the in cab circuits. Not all 42 pins are used on the connector, so I have to source some male and female pins so I make the connections. In all, I've got over 100 wires to solder, heat shrink and connect. Planning to have a good bit of it done tomorrow. Gotta love what I do...

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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
Also, posting this to remind myself, I did some math and I need to swap out the injectors. The 24 lb squirters arent enough for the power this thing will be making. I got some 30 lb squirters going in its place. Not planning to push this motor past 463 hp, as this is what the 30's will supply at 90% load. Not a good idea to run them more than that. I'm shooting for 400hp, so the injectors won't be overloaded. This isn't a track motor, and will rarely, if ever, see full throttle use as its in a DD and offroad truck built for low speed crawling. The most this motor will see is likely under my command while tuning...

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
Motor is completely stock 97 explorer, except for the intercooled M90 on top of it. Might only hit about 350 unless I drop a cam in it, but I'm not worried about it. Like I said, its a daily driver and full load/full boost driving will be rare, and for a very short timeframe, so any stressing the block will see will be minimal...

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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
So I went out for a few minutes before it started raining again, and I'm glad I pulled the complete engine bay harness from a donor explorer, cause its going to donate some wire. I might get lucky and find all the matching wire colors I need. Only thing I havent sourced yet are the male/female pins. I don't know if I have them or not, gotta look through my pile of parts...

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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
Rained off and on all day, moved the harnesses into the shop to work on them. Didn't get as much time in as planned, my sisters truck went down and I had to bring her bf to and from college. I stopped working on this at about 915 tonight. I've got about 6 hours or so on this, maybe 8. I'm about a quarter of the way through the wiring, at least on the engine harness. Still got to tie into the vehicle wiring for power, diagnostic port, speedo, tach, etc. Lets see what 8 hours worth of wiring takes...
Here is what I started with today...



The 42 pin plug was missing some pins as not all 42 locations are used, so I had to source some male and female pins so I can use all 42 circuits through the connector. The 12 pin connector that the abs circuits go through use the same size pins, so all the small pins were extracted and used...



Here is the 42 pin connector all filled up. 2 of the pin retainers have not been reinstalled at the time of this pic...



Here is where it gets more fun. The crank sensor circuit is shielded. Since I'm both extending and relocating the harness, I need to build a shield similar to the one used here. 1" wide aluminum tape is used with a bare ground wire running the length of the circuit, where it's grounded near the ecu along with the ecu case ground. This is a separate ground from the power ground, but its still a ground. I plan to use aluminum foil cut in 1" strips along with a bare wire. Electrical tape is wrapped over the shielded circuit, so aluminum tape is not 100% needed...



Here is the circuit with part of it shielded. As you can see, I got a ways to go...



My make shift work station. One of these days I'll build me a soldering station, which will consist of a 4x16 table so I can lay an entire harness out and have room to work...



Here is the engine bay harness that is making wire donations. Now you see why the need for a big soldering station...



And here is what it looks like at 915, doesn't look like much work was done, does it? Take into consideration that some circuits were deleted, some circuits from the ecu get cut, extended and rewired through the 42 pin connector, some circuits get cut, extended, and routed to a different area near the 42 pin connector, and most circuits on the 42 pin get cut and rewired. Basically, its more than 3 times the soldering that was done on David's and my sport trac...





All the wires you see between the ecu plug and the 42 pin plug (the short bundle of wires in the middle) all need to be cut, extended and soldered. It probably would have been easier to cut a hole in the firewall and install the ecu like ford did, but its too late now. Tomorrow's another day. I got other stuff going on around the house, should resume this either monday or tuesday...

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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
What can I say, I'm a perfectionist, you know that. When a swap leaves my shop, its like it would be from the factory. I don't like comebacks, and don't want the owners to have any issues...

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Discussion Starter · #56 ·
I'm sure I'm at the top of the list, lol...

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Discussion Starter · #57 ·
Another 3 hours into wiring, doesn't look like much...



I started running low on solder, this is the second tube I'll be emptying. Spent a half hour looking for my last tube, after being unsuccessful, I went back and kept going til I ran out. Closed up shop and came inside, looked for it again. After 5 minutes I found my last tube of solder, go figure. Btw, harbor freight has the perfect size solder for doing this type of work. Its small in diameter, can easily be wrapped around the wires being soldered. Since I'm now on my last tube, time to head to town and restock...

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Discussion Starter · #58 ·
Yep, thats it. I bought 2 of them while I was there cause I was on my last tube from radio shack, which was slightly thicker than this. I really liked the small diameter, and while it goes somewhat fast (about 8 hours worth of soldering), I love it. Just wish I could get a 1 lb spool of it, lol


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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
I'm gonna have to look online sometime for some solder in bulk, since it seems that I use it often...

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