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Discussion Starter · #61 ·
The 02 explorers got the full width trans cooler. I forgot about them til I seen that. I might have one of those floating around. I'll have to look for it. So what's that 30k cooler run?

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Discussion Starter · #62 ·
One with AN fittings, or an option with AN fittings would be a big plus...

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Discussion Starter · #63 ·
So today I pulled the console, removed the front airduct and trimmed the frame of the console. Left the guts in the console as I might try to figure out a way to run the rear air. Ran my twp power wires for the box, ran a ground to the frame just below the interior fusebox, and ran wires to both front lightbars, the larger lightbar is going through a relay as my control box output is only 10 amps. Ran a wire for park lamps. Got my visor lightbar installed and hooked up to the control box. Finally got things back together and started testing. The visor lightbar works, but is very dim trying to shine through the windshield visor tint. Might relocate the lightbar to the lower section of the windshield. Went to test the siren, and as soon as i turned the switch on, everything on the box went dead. Scratching my head, i rechecked everything. Pulled my meter out, and I'm getting 7.74 volts. Checked the power wires at the battery and after the circuit breakers, 11.4. So i go back and check voltage again, this time grounding my negative side of my meter to the frame where the ground is attached, same voltage, 7.74. So i grounded the meter on the cigarette lighter plug. I got 11.4 volts. So I've got a ground problem. Ran a jumper ground from the frame of the dash where i ran my ground to the kick panel frame, checked voltage at the control box, got 11.4. So I'm good to go. Turn the box on, it shuts down again, and voltage is back to reading 7.74. Go under the hood, and clean the battery to cab ground strap, but no change. Quit for the night. Didn't register the voltage was already low, but the truck starts fine. Going to clean the battery terminals tomorrow and run a ground from the control box to the battery if cleaning the terminals doesn't fix the issue. I bench tested the siren box before installing it in my truck, so I know it works. Its Wierd the ground problem i have...

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Discussion Starter · #64 ·
So I found out the voltage was low on my truck, I thought it was my meter out of calibration. Here is what the voltage is at the control box plug...



Here is the battery voltage at the battery...



Here's the negative battery terminal. The positive was just as bad...



Cleaned the terminal and battery post, looks much better...



Ran a ground wire to the factory cab ground from the battery. The green wire is the ground. You can also see the two 40 amp circuit breakers feeding the control box. I didn't have automotive wire cable, I thought i did. I'll change it out later...



Here's the voltage at the control box now, after the ground has been run. Instead of running the ground straight to the control unit, I ran it to the dash frame where I attached the ground at for the control unit...



Here's the finished install...



Here's the unit with the running lights on. I originally bought blue/red leds to install this in the trac. Since I'm leaving the color alone in the f150, it matches the dash, I can also dim the lights in the control box using the factory dash light dimmer...



When the switches are depressed, activating that light, it turns red. Here you can see three of the switches in use...



Now I just need to install my lightbars. Wires are already ran to the bumper and cowl for the overhead lightbar and the bar going on the bumper grille...

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Discussion Starter · #65 ·
Yeah, I havent had a chance to do any battery cable upgrades yet, but its on the to do list. I'll swap the terminals out when the upgraded cable goes in...

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So the next upgrade is headlights as mine are pretty faded. I used the top of the line sylvania silverstar bulbs in SVT some 10 years ago, and they were the brightest at that time. I was going to get another pair, despite the $50 per pair price tag. Then I came across these...





These ultra's are supposed to be even brighter, at the same wattage. Again, they're about the same price, but I found them on ebay for $26 shipped for both. Going to get a new set of headlights next week, black lightning style, which is when I'll install the bulbs. Stay tuned...

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Discussion Starter · #67 ·
No biggie, it happens [twothumbs]

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Discussion Starter · #68 ·
So I finally ordered a set of powerstop drilled and slotted rotors from rockauto, $98 shipped to my door. They came today and look awesome. I was impressed with the quality...







Got ceramic brake pads from AutoZone, $49 plus tax...



Got the rotor installed, cleaned up the expedition bracket and installed. Put antiseize on the unit bearing behind the rotor...



Got the expedition caliper installed with the ceramic pads...



Broke in the pads and rotors according to the directions from powerstop. I could already tell a big difference in stopping power. Can't tow heavy loads for 100 miles, but I can't wait to hook up a load and test em out. Going to get rear powerstop rotors and ceramic pads soon...

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Nice. [thumb]

Were the rotors $98 for the pair or $98 each?
 

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Discussion Starter · #70 ·
98 was shipped to my for door both, the price is listed each, but sold as a pair since they are directional...

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Discussion Starter · #71 ·
Happy Valentine's Day! To show my love for you, I bought you new black diamond lightning headlights, new black diamond corner lights, new 2 color led corner bulbs, new led smoke taillights, new 30 watt led reverse bulbs, and a new led third brake light. I hope you like my gifts.


oh yeah, happy V day brandi...lol

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Discussion Starter · #73 ·
So, the lights are in. New diamond clear black lightning headlights and matching black clear corners, projector foglights, smoke led tail lights, and matching smoke led 3rd brake light, dual color led 3157 bulbs, and 9007 sylverstar ultras...



Closeup of the projectors...



The tail and 3rd brake light. Also the bulbs...



The headlight/corners...



Got one side of the headlight/corner light done. Comparison shot of stock vs new...



The headlights/corners are in...



The dual color leds are in. Here is the park lights on...





Here it is when the turn signals are activated. Shown with the hazards on...





Headlights on...



Onto the foglights. Both in...



Foglights on. Later I plan to mod the headlight switch so I can run the foglights without the headlights. My sport trac has this feature from the factory. I ordered some led bulbs to go in the projectors, but they haven't shown up yet...



Here are the rear tailights and 3rd light installed and lit. I took the white led 3157 bulbs I was using for reverse lights out of the ST to install in the new lights, but they're not bright enough for me. I'll order some brighter lights to replace them...



Also traded my 14" led lightbar for a new 50" led curved bar, straight up trade. Here it is mocked in place. I cut the wire short and soldered on a weatherproof connector, and ran the wire down the windshield pillar on the outside. Not pictured, but there is a rubber seal similar to the weatherstripping for the doors that runs around the windshield. I was able to lift the rubber and tuck the wires down in the channel for a clean look. The rubber lays down flat as it did before. Minor trimming was done at the top corner so the rubber would lay flat...



One of the reasons for going with all led bulbs is so I don't have to buy and install separate led flashers/strobes in the lights. In SVT and the ST I modified the wiring at the lights so I could install a flasher. This involves installing diodes so the flasher doesn't backfeed and overload. On the F150 I decided to get another male and female taillight harness plug and make an adapter that simply plugs into the harness, keeping the harness factory, and allowing me to remove the wiring mod for use on replacement vehicles. The way I will be having the lights flash, the reverse lights will alternate from side to side along with the taillights from side to side, but opposite the reverse light. To do this, I had to separate the reverse lights from being wired together on the taillight side of the harness. This is the only mod I had to do to the factory wiring. I added a wire into the plug that allowed me to split the reverse light into 2 circuits through the plug. I will simply connect these two circuits together at the plug on the vehicle side.



This is where I stopped for the day. I didn't have a large enough diameter heat shrink with me to cover the diodes. I ran to rural king to pick up some aluminum plate to fab up some mounts for the lightbar, some self tapping screws, and heat shrink to finish the install. Hopefully I can get this install finished by tomorrow. The adapter will have to wait as I need to make another trip to the junkyard to get another plug so I can add the other reverse light circuit. Going to grab the entire plug even though I only need the male and female pins, I can use the waterproof plug elsewhere...

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Discussion Starter · #74 ·
Here is the 50" led lightbar mounted on the 150...



Here are the 30 watt leds I bought for the projector fog lights. Unfortunately the projector opening needs to be enlarged slightly to get the bulbs in, so that'll be another day...



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Discussion Starter · #75 ·
There 3 wires going to the corners, its a 3157 bulb. The dual led bulbs were $10.79 each, shipped, and came with the load resistors, which i didn't use (i wanted the fast flash pattern)...

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Discussion Starter · #76 ·
Ebay, but only after extensive research..

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Discussion Starter · #77 ·
I wasn't even looking for a dual color led, just a bright one. Came across em, ordered them not knowing if I would like them. I do, but when the running lights are on, and the turn signal is activated, the bulb cancels the white, activates the amber, after the amber signal is canceled, the white turns back on 1 full second after the amber is canceled...

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Discussion Starter · #78 ·
I'm liking it more and more, but I still need a lot bigger truck. I'll keep this one until the rust gets too bad...

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Discussion Starter · #79 ·
Bed below the tailgate, tank straps, steering knuckles, exhaust. Looks like the body is ok so far, except the bed. Luckily the frame is surviving it so far. Haven't looked close enough to my core support to know. Kind of scared to look. If it wasn't for the rust damage, I'd of swapped in the 32 valve navi motor and trans, and bolted my M122 to it months ago...

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Discussion Starter · #80 ·
It went in last year for the recall. I found it only due to the fuel pump going out. Dropped the skidplate, the front strap was half way rusted through, nothing left of the back strap. Installed my 96 lowrider's fuel pump in the F150, its been running great ever since. It went in for the strap recall less than a month later, which was around may if i remember. The new straps haven't been checked, but it is still an area that rust was...

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